Musical Instrument Museum, Brussels

It's a wonderful museum.  They give you an audio headset that you can listen to with or without headphones.  I got the English version, which was music and no words describing the instruments.  It was "smart" and played the instruments I was standing in front of in the museum. 

http://www.mim.be/museum
"In a beautifully restored complex in Brussels, of which one part is Art Nouveau and the other, neoclassical in design, the 1200 most interesting instruments are assembled in 4 galleries, enhanced by images, text panels and sounds. In addition the mim has a concert hall, a space for workshops (for groups and by reservation only), a museum shop, a library and a rooftop restaurant, from where the breathtaking view over the city gives a unique flavour to the menu. No wonder that, since its opening in 2000, the mim has become a first class cultural attraction on the Mont des Arts, with an average of 125,000 visitors per year (not including restaurant guests)."

I went through my favorite room with the tribal instruments 3 times.  From the website, it seems to be a favorite of other visitors as well:  "A favourite for many visitors is the room dedicated to traditional musical instruments. The tour starts in Belgium and passes through a whole series of European traditions to cultures from around the world. Besides the well-known Scottish version, many more countries appear to have their own type of bagpipes, Tibetan monks make musical instruments out of the bones of their deceased colleagues, and African slit drums are the local form of Twitter."

The descriptions were in French and Flemish.  I was so inspired by all of the instruments from all over the world, I kept thinking I wanted a book that described them all.  When I got to the museum shop and I asked about it, I was directed to the awesome Visitor's Guide that's in English.  I am still reading the awesome 200 page book and I'm reliving my Museum experience.

When I got home, I googled the "best musical instrument museum in the world" and it turns out there's a great one in Pheonix, AZ.  I see a trip in my future.

Matthias De Weale Trio @ Cafe Hopper, Antwerp, Belgium 10/1/12

It was a nice little cafe with no food and no cover.  I had delicious fresh mint tea.  This site I found said they feature musicians from the local jazz academy.  It was nice to get out to some music, but nothing to write home about.  I do have to write up all live music experiences for posterity, especially those in foreign countries.  I stayed, so it wasn't awful by any means, I'm just spoiled.  The piano was OK, there was an enjoyable bass solo.  It was a nice space that felt good.

Paris Music

I wanted to sample more of Paris so I left for some Funk at Le Petit Journal. When I got there the band was on and it sucked.  It wasn't just the singing (atrocious), but the music itself wasn't very good.  It was a tourist spot and they wanted 25 Euro for that.  I kept noticing a lot of good music was outside of Paris:  Denis Colin, Kris Davis, Larry Corryell.  I feel like I haven't quite figured it out yet.  There's got to be more.  Everyone comes through Paris, so last time I lucked out that Warren Haynes Band, Tedeschi Trucks Band, and Secret Chiefs 3 were all in town when I was.  All American bands that I already know and love.  There's got to be more to it.  Also, I realize how lucky I am to live in a place where there are usually multiple stellar options on any given night.

I'm still in love with Paris regardless of whether I ever figure out how to get great music more often than not.  I also suspect it's better to go for the lesser known places.  I'm looking forward to checking out the Barbes area and the 11th more and planning out before hitting the suburbs on a future trip.

Cheb Aissa Et Les Gypsies @ New Morning, Paris 9/29/12

I was told this is the best jazz club in town.  It was reinforced seeing some of the listings. Randy Weston is coming in a week or 2, Fred Wesley played there the previous night, etc.

I love how they have a dance floor.  It's right up front and a couple of steps down from the seats.  There are only a few tables and lots of chairs facing the stage.  You are allowed to dance wherever you want.  And there were plenty of dancers as well as sitters all commingling and enjoying themselves.  It's not really that nice a space, compared to our nice NYC jazz clubs.  The music was good, but not at the level I've grown accustomed to.  It was still fun and enjoyable.  There were 3 guitars, a bass, drums and doubek and keyboard.  I liked it, but would have liked it more if there was a horn or violin or something instead of the keyboard making those sounds.  I really liked the crowd and how into it they were.

http://www.newmorning.com/20120929-2589-Cheb-Aissa-Featuring-Chico-The-Gypsies.html

http://www.rfimusic.com/news-music/world-music/album/20120821-cheb-aissa-gipsy-rai-baraka

Lionel Boccara Trio @ Comptoir Bouchant, Paris 9/29/12

It was a free trio at a bistro.  Free as in no cover.  I just had a glass of wine and enjoyed the sax, bass and guitar playing standards.  As far as level of playing, this was the best it got for this stay in Paris.  I have more to say about the Paris music scene in a later post, 2 or 3 away from this one.  I was starting to have some restored faith in the Paris music scene.

http://www.lionelboccara.com/pages%20GB/pagebioGB.htm

Deaf Drummers, Paris 9/29/12

It was the middle of the day and I was near Place Saint-André des Arts when I heard the drumming over by the Seine.  I was curious to find the sound.  It was some kind of march or parade of people with about 8-10 drummers taking up the rear.  It sounded good and I was intrigued as to what it was about.  It turns out they were all deaf. 

I flashed back to my first time in Paris back in 1995.  I heard The Who blaring outside during the day and wanted to know what was going on.  It was another event with deaf people, some kind of party.  I was fascinated because I didn't realize one could appreciate music without being able to hear.  Makes me feel better as to the possibility of losing hearing in my old age.  Hopefully it won't happen, but if it does, I may not have to live without music.

I subsequently asked a friend who is a sign interpreter and she told me there's a big school in that area.  Also, a French guy pioneered a type of sign language that is used in France and the US.  She also told me about some of her clients and how they listen to music by feeling the vibrations.  She said one client uses a balloon at concerts to feel the vibrations through the balloon.  This is very interesting to me.  I may need to explore this further.

Denis Colin, France

I was thrilled when I saw the 1st of my 2 night weekend say in Paris coincided with Denis Colin Et Les Aprenteurs.  The only problem was they were playing outside of Paris, a RER (regional train) ride away.  Paris is confusing enough navigating the streets and metro.  I was also told at the hotel those RER trains can get sketchy late at night.  Still, Denis Colin Trio sparked my entire quest to see the world through music.  I saw them years ago at The Knitting Factory Jazzfest (not sure if it was Winter or Summer).  It was awesome.  I remember Denis walked back and forth across the stage playing the bass clarinet and an African woman was sitting in a chair singing and chanting.  I can't remember the other instrument.  It was very spiritual and very good music.  Then and there I knew I had to get out in the world and see what else I was missing.

In spite of a huge effort to get to this show, taking wrong trains and wrong stops, getting lost in the suburb, and 3 hours later making it back to Paris without making the show, I was happy for the adventure and the chance to remember that great experience years ago in NYC.

DENIS COLIN & LA SOCIÉTÉ DES ARPENTEURS ‘subject to live’ (Chant du Monde / Harmonia Mundi)
France - USA
Denis Colin (clarinette-basse & compositions)
Benjamin Moussay (fender rhodes & electronics)
Julien Omé (guitare)
Philippe Sellam (sax alto & soprano)
Antoine Berjeaut (trompette & bugle)
Sylvaine Hélary (flûtes)
Fabrice Theuillon (sax baryton & soprano)
Stéphane Kerecki (contrebasse)
Thomas Gimonprez (batterie)
Eric Echampard (batterie)

http://www.deniscolin.com/loader_mainUS.html